Composting:
organic, lawn, garden and food waste
 

Composting is a form of recycling. Composting, like recycling, lowers your impact on the environment. Composting is a process that occurs in nature. Mother Nature can only do so much to keep up. Let’s help her out! Land is also gobbled up to make way for new and larger landfills. Do your part by decreasing the amount of materials you send to the landfill.  Try composting!

Guide to Composting Outdoors

  1. Build or buy a compost bin.
  2. Locate the bin or pile in a convenient area.  The composting pile or bin should not be placed too close to a structure to avoid possible fires. Many local ordinances require 15 feet between a pile/bin and a structure.
  3. Build the compost pile. Your compost pile will be made up of materials rich in carbon and nitrogen.  The microbes that break down the various wastes into compost need carbon and nitrogen sources to live.

    How to build a compost pile:
    • Add brown plant materials (the carbon source) 6-8 inches of leaves, straw or other brown yard waste.
    • Add green plant material (the nitrogen source) Materials might include vegetable wastes, grass clippings, or a 2-3 inch layer of dried manure.
    • Add water. As the pile is built, water the layers until damp, but not soggy. A simple test is to grab a handful of material in the pile and make a baseball shaped ball. If the “ball” drips then the compost is too wet. If you can’t even make a “ball” then the compost is too dry. Over-watering can lead to unpleasant odors.
    • Add soil. To speed up the composting process add a few shovel-scoops of soil. The soil contains the little helpers (microorganisms) needed to get the compost process going.
  4. Turn the compost pile. The microorganisms need room to breath. Turning the pile every 2 weeks will speed of the composting process and make sure the microorganisms don’t become anaerobic (without air) which can lead to unpleasant odors.
  5. Maintain the compost pile. Add yard waste and food scraps as they become available. A simple idea is to keep a plastic ice cream bucket under your sink for vegetable and fruit scraps.  Then you can take a trip to the pile when the bucket is full. Don’t forget to stir pile and add water as needed!
  6. The compost is finished when it is a dark brown and has an earthy smell.  This happens in about 2-4 months (depending on how well the pile is watered and turned).

Compost improves the condition of your soil. Use the finished compost in your gardens, work it into new lawns, top dress 1 foot beyond the drip line around trees and shrubs (then put some mulch on that) and houseplants (potting mixture of equal parts loam or peat, sand and compost).

Guide to Composting Indoors 

  1. Worm composting indoors might seem like more work, but during the cold winter it is worth it. Redworms, also known as red wigglers are the worm of choice for worm composting.  The process of composting indoors is quite similar to outdoor composting, except the composting process gets a boost from the help of hungry worms.  
  2. Build or buy a compost bin.
  3. Locate the bin in a convenient area.  Worms like cool areas of the house, such as basements.  The worms like a place where the temperature is between 55-75 degrees F.
  4. Prepare bedding. Bedding must hold moisture and, at the same time remain light and fluffy so the worms have plenty of air. Avoid materials that might contain toxins, as they might be unhealthy for the worms. Good bedding includes, paper towels, paper egg cartons, drive-through beverage holders, newspapers, leaves, sawdust.  Shred newspaper into 1-inch strips or use a paper shredder. Water is a very important component for your worms. A worm’s body is 75-90% water, and the bedding/compost must be moist in order for the worm to breathe. You might have to dip the newspaper strips or sprinkle the bedding materials with water to supply enough moisture in the beginning of the composting process.  Once the worm bin is “stabilized”, the food scraps should provide the moisture needed.
  5. Add worms. Dump your purchased redworms in the worm box on top of the bedding.  Spread them out and leave the lid open. Worms do no like light and will burrow into the bedding.  After a few hours, check the bin and remove dead worms from the bin and place in the regular trash (not thrown outside to avoid contamination of outside soil should the worm still be alive. Believe it or not worms are not native to North America!)
  6. Add food scraps. Add acceptable food item waste as you generate them.  Keep a small plastic bucket under your sink to accumulate scraps so you can feed your worms every 1-2 weeks. Dig a trough in the compost, add a thin layer of bedding, place food waste on top of that, cover with compost/bedding mixture to cut down on odors.

What Can I Compost?

Follow the carbon to nitrogen ratio to ensure the decomposition process runs efficiently.  By placing the approximate ratio of carbon and nitrogen materials (as well as adding appropriate amounts of water and mixing) the composting process will go quicker and smoother.  Your backyard festivities won’t be as pleasant with the smell of rotting meat and feces!  So…don’t compost the following items!

  • Foods with meat, dairy or oils

  • Pet feces (dog, cat or bird)

  • Diseased plants

  • Weeds gone to seed

  • Ash from charcoal to coal

The following is a chart of the carbon and nitrogen
ratio for commonly composted materials
 

Type of Feedstock 
 

Ratio

High Carbon Content

 

Bark

100-130:1

Corn Stalks

60:1

Leaves and Weeds (dry)

90:1

Mixed MSW (Municipal Solid Waste)

50-60:1

Paper

170:1

Sawdust

500:1

Straw (dry)

100:1

Wood

700:1

 

 

High Nitrogen Content

 

Cow Manure

          18:1

Food Scraps

15:1

Fruit Scraps

35:1

Grass Clippings

12-20:1

Hay (dry)

40:1

Horse Manure

25:1

Humus

10:1

Leaves (fresh)

30-40:1

Mixed Grasses

19:1

Non-legume Vegetable Scraps

11-12:1

Poultry Manure

15:1

Biosolids

11:1

Weeds (fresh)

25:1

Seaweed

19:1


Source: EPA 530-R-94-003 May 1994

Make a Homemade Compost Bin

Don’t want to buy a compost bin? Don’t worry. You can build your very own compost bin with free or inexpensive materials. Check out the various bin designs below.

Snow Fence Bin

Bins made with prefabricated snow fencing are simple to make and easy to move and store. Buy about 12-14 feet of snow fencing. Create a circle by securing the fence with wire ties. Fasten 2- 2x4’s as corner posts to the snow fence using wire ties. The corner posts are important to keep the fence upright and to maintain a circular shape.

 

 

 

Woven Wire Bin

This is the easiest compost bin to make ever! Purchase woven wire fencing and wire ties or chain snaps. To purchase enough fencing multiple the diameter you want for the compost pile by 3.2. The suggested minimum diameter for a compost bin is three feet. Create a circular shape and attach the two end of the fence with wire ties or chain snaps.

 

 

Block Bin

If you have access to cement blocks or rocks you can build a compost bin. Simply lay the blocks down to form three sides. To make sure there is plenty of air circulation, don’t use concrete between the layers of blocks or rocks. You can build a three-bin unit by constructing additional sides.

 

 

Wooden Pallet Bin

This is another cost saving bin to make. Most pallets are thrown away with only one use. That’s a lot of pallets! You can construct a pallet bin by finding four pallets. Drill small holes on the ends of each pallet to accommodate wire ties to keep the pallets from tipping over. Wasn’t that simple?

 

 

 


How do I use the finished Compost?

On the Lawn:

On established lawns, apply compost once a year in layers ¼ to ½ inch thick. Water well. To prepare soil for a new lawn, till 4 inches of compost into 6 inches of soil.

For trees and shrubs:

Lay 1” compost around trees from one foot away from the trunk out past the drip line. A 2” layer should be used for shrubs. Apply once per year. To prepare soil for new shrubs, till the soil to a depth of 8-10 inches. The depth should be at least twice the width of the root ball. Apply a layer of 4 inches of compost and mix thoroughly into soil. If soil is very poor use 6 inches of compost instead.

In the garden:

Lay ½ to 1” compost on top of soil. If possible, till 2-4” into the top 10” soil. In large fields, apply between 900-1200 lbs. Per acre as needed, depending on the current health of the soil. To establish a new garden or prepare garden for planting, till the soil to a depth of 8-10 inches. Apply a layer of 4 inches of compost and mix thoroughly into soil. If soil is very poor use 6 inches of compost instead, mixing much of the additional compost into the top 3-4” of soil.

For potted plants:

DO NOT plant in pure compost. To root properly, plants must have the texture provided by soil. Your potting mix may be ¼ to one-third compost. The remainder may be good potting soil. Many organic gardeners potting soil that is a combination of compost, worm castings, potting soil, sand, and other organic ingredients like vermiculite and peat.

For Friends and Family:

Why not get other people excited about composting and gardening? Sharing your composting knowledge and some finished compost with your friends, neighbors, and family is a good thing!


Composting in Winter

Winter is when you can take a break from composting. Well, not exactly. While your compost pile is frozen you can still add your kitchen waste to the top (or compost your kitchen scraps in a vermicompost bin). When spring arrives, turn the compost pile completely to get the decomposition process started up again.

Composting Resources

Fond du Lac Environmental Program (218) 878-7101, 878-7123
Western Lake Superior Sanitary District (218) 722-3336
Cornell Waste Management Institute http://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/Waste.html
Laverme's Worms (218-727-8524) Purchase worm bins, worms, detailed instructions, books, and troubleshooting
http://www.lavermesworms.com/
Internet Search Words Composting, Composting Bins, Vermiculture, Vermicomposting, Gardening, Eco Gardening, Environmental Gardening

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